Why It Matters

TenCate Protective Fabrics USA is the military’s primary domestic supplier of flame-resistant fabric amid growing congressional scrutiny of military supply chains. The company has expanded its lobbying effort as Congress actively legislates to strengthen the Berry Amendment and close procurement loopholes.

The Better Outfitting Our Troops (BOOTS) Act, a bipartisan effort to mandate American-made military apparel, signals sustained congressional momentum. TenCate’s strategy—hiring Cornerstone Government Affairs Inc. for its deep Senate Armed Services Committee ties—directly targets committees controlling military procurement policy.

By the Numbers

TenCate Protective Fabrics USA is a seasoned Washington player with 112 lobbying filings and $2.91 million in total expenditures since 2009. The company retained Cornerstone for $60,000 in the last quarter of 2025—marking a strategic expansion of its existing lobbying footprint.

Livingston Group LLC remains the primary vendor, accounting for $2.58 million since 2009. Oculus Strategies LLC joined in 2024 to focus on NDAA provisions. The Cornerstone engagement adds defense expertise without displacing existing relationships.

The Cornerstone team brings heavy hitters. Anthony J. Lazarski spent 8.5 years on the Senate Armed Services Committee. Peter Bridgman Webster Jr. brings 7.5 years of Senate experience in Democratic leadership roles.

The Agenda

TenCate is lobbying specifically on sourcing flame-resistant fabric for military uniforms. The company has maintained a 16-year lobbying presence centered on defense procurement policy, focusing on annual National Defense Authorization Acts (NDAA) and Defense Appropriations Acts, protecting the Berry Amendment, and combat vehicle protection systems.

The new Cornerstone engagement positions TenCate to influence the defense authorization and appropriations processes as Congress shows heightened interest in strengthening domestic manufacturing for military apparel.

Broader Context

Congress is actively legislating to strengthen domestic military manufacturing, creating a favorable environment for TenCate’s lobbying push. The bipartisan BOOTS Act aims to mandate 100 percent American-made combat boots and materials, while the House NDAA closed loopholes in the Berry Amendment.

The Pentagon is prioritizing supply chain resilience as defense spending is projected to climb through 2035. The domestic textile sector faces genuine distress—Patrick Yarn Mill, Gildan, and Unifi have all closed North Carolina facilities in recent years, creating political sympathy for remaining manufacturers like TenCate.

Critics argue domestic-only mandates drive costs up and quality down. RealClearDefense reported that domestic boot manufacturers have limited surge capacity and quality concerns exceed 25 percent return rates, creating tension between protectionism and warfighter welfare.

Between The Lines

Regional lawmakers are driving the agenda. Senators Angus King (I-ME) and Susan Collins (R-ME) have highlighted concerns that current rules have "undermined the American military’s readiness." Senator Ted Budd (R-NC) emphasized that a North Carolina facility represents the last domestic supplier of military dress uniform fabrics.

The National Council of Textile Organizations has actively endorsed these efforts, creating industry coalition support. However, the policy debate over costs and quality concerns will play out behind closed doors on Capitol Hill.

Competitive Landscape

TenCate operates within a broader industry coalition including the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and the American Apparel and Footwear Association, which have endorsed the BOOTS Act.

Recent facility closures have concentrated market opportunities among remaining manufacturers. Companies like Coats American share TenCate’s interest in strengthening domestic sourcing mandates that protect against cheaper imports.

The Bottom Line

TenCate is doubling down on defense procurement advocacy by hiring Cornerstone for $60,000 quarterly, capitalizing on congressional momentum favoring domestic military sourcing. The bipartisan BOOTS Act and Berry Amendment strengthening create political tailwinds for flame-resistant fabric manufacturers.

However, TenCate faces persistent counterarguments that domestic-only procurement mandates increase costs and raise quality concerns.
Access the Legis1 platform for comprehensive political news, data, and insights.